V Neck Knit Sweater Tutorial: Video tutorial

Hello fellow knitting enthusiasts! Is there anything more satisfying than wrapping yourself in a cozy, hand-knit sweater? Today, we’re embarking on a rewarding project: knitting a classic V-neck sweater. This tutorial is designed to guide you through each step, making it achievable for knitters with some basic experience.

A V-neck sweater is a timeless wardrobe staple, offering both comfort and style. Whether you prefer a relaxed fit or something more tailored, this pattern provides a solid foundation that you can customize to your liking. So, gather your needles and yarn, find a comfy spot, and let’s knit ourselves a beautiful V-neck sweater!

What You’ll Need:

Worsted Weight Yarn: Choose a yarn you love! The amount will depend on your desired size. For an average adult size (M), you’ll likely need around 800-1200 yards. Check your yarn label for gauge recommendations.
Circular Knitting Needles:
- One pair in the size recommended for your yarn (usually around US 7-8 / 4.5-5 mm) for the main body.
- One smaller size circular needle (about one size down) for the ribbing (e.g., US 6 / 4 mm).
Double-Pointed Needles (DPNs) or a longer circular needle for magic loop (optional): For working the sleeves in the round.
Stitch Markers: Essential for marking raglan increases and the V-neck shaping. You’ll need at least 4.
Row Counter: To keep track of your progress.
Measuring Tape: To ensure accurate sizing.
Scissors: For snipping yarn.
Tapestry Needle: For weaving in ends.
Cable Needle or Stitch Holder (optional): For holding stitches during the V-neck shaping.

Understanding the Basics: Stitches and Techniques

This pattern utilizes the following basic knitting stitches and techniques:

Knit (k): The fundamental stitch in knitting.
Purl (p): The other fundamental stitch, creating a textured surface.
Stockinette Stitch (St st): Knit on the right side (RS) and purl on the wrong side (WS).
Garter Stitch: Knit every row. Used for the initial cast-on edge.
Ribbing (k1, p1 or k2, p2): Creates a stretchy and neat edge for the cuffs, hem, and neckband. We’ll use k1, p1 ribbing.
Make One Right (M1R): A common increase that leans to the right.
Make One Left (M1L): A common increase that leans to the left.
Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk): A left-leaning decrease.
Knit Two Together (k2tog): A right-leaning decrease.
Picking Up Stitches: A technique used for creating the neckband.
Binding Off: Finishing the edges of your knitted pieces.

Video tutorial

The Pattern: Knitting Your V-Neck Masterpiece

This pattern is written for a bottom-up, raglan construction with V-neck shaping.

1. Back:

Using the smaller circular needles, cast on the required number of stitches for your desired size (e.g., 90 stitches for a size M) using a stretchy cast-on method.
Rows 1-8 (Garter Stitch): Knit every row.
Switch to larger circular needles.
Row 9 (RS): Knit across.
Row 10 (WS): Purl across.
Continue in Stockinette Stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS) until the back measures approximately [desired length to underarm – e.g., 16 inches].
Divide for Raglan: On the next RS row, bind off [number of stitches for armhole – e.g., 4] stitches at the beginning of the row. Knit to the last [number of stitches for armhole] stitches, and bind off those stitches.
Continue in Stockinette Stitch, decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next two rows (WS and RS) at each armhole edge.
Continue decreasing 1 stitch at each armhole edge every other RS row until you have [remaining number of stitches for back neck – e.g., 30] stitches.
Work straight in Stockinette Stitch until the back measures approximately [desired total length to shoulder – e.g., 24 inches].
Bind off all stitches for the back neck and shoulders.

2. Front:

Using the smaller circular needles, cast on the same number of stitches as the back (e.g., 90 stitches).
Rows 1-8 (Garter Stitch): Knit every row.
Switch to larger circular needles.
Row 9 (RS): Knit across.
Row 10 (WS): Purl across.
Continue in Stockinette Stitch until the front measures the same length as the back to the underarm.
Divide for Raglan and V-Neck: On the next RS row, bind off [number of stitches for armhole] stitches at the beginning of the row. Knit to the last [number of stitches for armhole] stitches, and bind off those stitches.
On the next WS row, purl across, decreasing 1 stitch at each armhole edge.
Begin V-Neck Shaping (RS): Knit to the center two stitches. Slip the first of these two stitches knitwise, knit the second stitch, then pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (ssk – left-leaning decrease). Place a marker. Knit to the end of the row.
Next WS Row: Purl to one stitch before the marker, purl two together (p2tog – right-leaning decrease). Purl the last stitch.
Continue raglan decreases as on the back (every other RS row at each armhole edge).
Continue V-neck decreases every RS row (or every other RS row for a shallower V-neck) at the marker.
Work until the front measures the same total length as the back to the shoulder.
Bind off the remaining shoulder stitches.

3. Sleeves (Make 2):

Using the smaller DPNs or magic loop method, cast on the required number of stitches for your desired sleeve circumference (e.g., 40 stitches).
Work in k1, p1 ribbing for approximately [desired cuff length – e.g., 2 inches].
Switch to larger needles.
Work in Stockinette Stitch, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning and end of every [desired number of rows – e.g., 8th] row until you have the desired number of stitches for the upper arm (e.g., 60 stitches).
Continue in Stockinette Stitch until the sleeve measures approximately [desired length to underarm – e.g., 18 inches].
Shape Raglan Cap: Bind off [number of stitches for armhole – e.g., 4] stitches at the beginning of the next two rounds.
Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next round and 1 stitch at the end of the next round.
Continue decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning and end of every other round until [remaining number of sleeve stitches – e.g., 10] stitches remain.
Bind off the remaining stitches.

4. Blocking:

Gently hand wash all your knitted pieces in lukewarm water with a mild soap.
Carefully squeeze out excess water (do not twist or wring).
Lay the pieces flat on a blocking board or foam mat.
Pin the pieces to your desired measurements, paying attention to the armhole and neck shaping.
Allow the pieces to dry completely.

5. Assembly:

Using the tapestry needle, sew the raglan seams together, aligning the decreases.
Sew the side seams of the body and the underarm seams of the sleeves in one continuous seam.

6. Neckband:

Using the smaller circular needles, pick up stitches around the V-neck opening. Aim for a multiple of 2 stitches.
Round 1: Knit all picked-up stitches.
Work in k1, p1 ribbing for approximately [desired neckband width – e.g., 1 inch].
Shape the V-Neck: To create a neat V-neck, you’ll need to work a centered double decrease (sl 1, k2tog, psso) at the center front point on every other round (or every round, depending on your preference). Place a stitch marker at the center front to help you identify this point.
Continue working in ribbing and shaping the V-neck until the neckband reaches your desired width.
Bind off all stitches using a stretchy bind-off method.

Congratulations! You’ve now knit your very own V-neck sweater. Weave in all remaining ends, give it a final press if needed (following yarn care instructions), and wear your handmade creation with pride!

Customization Ideas:

Different Ribbing: Experiment with k2, p2 ribbing or other ribbing patterns for the cuffs, hem, and neckband.
Texture: Incorporate textured stitches like cables, seed stitch, or moss stitch into the body or sleeves.
Colorwork: Add stripes or other colorwork patterns for a unique look.
Fit: Adjust the number of cast-on stitches and the rate of increases/decreases to achieve a looser or more fitted silhouette.
Yarn Choice: The look and feel of your sweater will vary greatly depending on the yarn you choose.