Crochet Waffle Stitch Blanket You Will Love

a Waffle Stitch Blanket! What a wonderfully textured and cozy project you’ve chosen. You’re absolutely right, the result is something you’ll truly love snuggling under. Here’s a detailed pattern to guide you through creating your own:

Crochet Waffle Stitch Blanket

Level: Intermediate

Materials:

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn in your desired color(s) and quantity (refer to your yarn label for recommended hook size and estimated yardage for a blanket of your desired dimensions). Consider a soft and washable yarn for a blanket.
Crochet Hook: The size recommended on your yarn label.
Scissors
Tapestry Needle: For weaving in ends.
Stitch Markers (optional but helpful)

Finished Size: Adjustable to your preference. The pattern provides instructions for creating a blanket of any width and length.

Gauge: While gauge isn’t critical for a blanket, knowing it can help you estimate your finished size and yarn requirements. Work a small swatch of the waffle stitch (following Rows 1-4 below) and measure it.

Abbreviations (US Crochet Terms):

ch = chain
st(s) = stitch(es)
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
fpdc = front post double crochet (yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through the remaining two loops)
rep = repeat
beg = beginning
RS = right side
WS = wrong side

Special Stitches:

Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): This stitch creates the raised “waffle” texture.

Instructions:

Foundation Chain:

Determine the desired width of your blanket. The foundation chain needs to be a multiple of 3, plus 2 for the turning chain.
- For example, if you want a blanket approximately 30 inches wide and your gauge is 4 dc per inch, you’d need roughly 120 dc across. Therefore, your foundation chain would be 120+2=122 chains.
Chain the required number of stitches.

Body of the Blanket:

Row 1 (RS): Sc in the second ch from the hook and in each ch across. Turn. (This row creates a solid base for the waffle stitch pattern).

Row 2 (WS): Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout), dc in the first sc and in each sc across. Turn.

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout), sc in the first dc, *fpdc around the next dc, sc in the next dc; rep from * across to the last dc, sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 4 (WS): Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout), dc in the first sc, *dc in the fpdc, dc in the next sc; rep from * across to the last sc, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 5 (RS): Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout), sc in the first dc, *sc in the next dc, fpdc around the next dc; rep from * across to the last dc, sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 6 (WS): Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout), dc in the first sc, *dc in the next sc, dc in the fpdc; rep from * across to the last sc, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Repeat Rows 3-6 to create the waffle stitch pattern and achieve your desired blanket length.

Tips for Success:

Keep your tension consistent: This will ensure an even and beautiful texture throughout your blanket.
Pay attention to which stitch you’re working into: On the right side rows, you’ll be working sc and fpdc stitches. On the wrong side rows, you’ll be working dc stitches into the stitches from the previous row.
Identifying Right and Wrong Sides: The right side of your work will have the raised “waffle” texture created by the fpdc stitches. The wrong side will have a flatter, more uniform appearance.
Turning Chains: Be mindful that the ch 2 at the beginning of the wrong side rows does not count as a stitch. The ch 1 at the beginning of the right side rows also does not count as a stitch. Always work your first stitch into the first stitch of the row.
Stitch Markers: If you’re having trouble identifying the first and last stitches of each row, especially on the wrong side, place stitch markers in them.
Changing Colors (Optional): If you want to incorporate stripes or color blocks, change colors at the end of a row. Fasten off the old color and join the new color with a slip stitch in the last stitch of the row. Continue with the next row in the new color. Weave in all ends securely.

Edging (Optional):

Once your blanket reaches the desired length, you can add an optional edging to give it a finished look. Here are a few simple ideas:

Single Crochet Border: Work one round (or more) of single crochet evenly around the entire blanket. Work 3 sc in each corner to help it lie flat.
Double Crochet Border: Similar to the single crochet border, work one or more rounds of double crochet.
Simple Shell Border: Work a round of single crochet first. Then, in the next round, work *(sc in the next st, skip 2 sts, 5 dc in the next st, skip 2 sts); rep from * around, join with a slip stitch.
Crab Stitch (Reverse Single Crochet): Work a round of single crochet. Then, working from left to right (instead of right to left), insert your hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops. This creates a twisted, textured edge.

Finishing: